Vulpe Rosso!!

So we are well into the New Year and unusually wintery weather (for the UK) is keeping me out of the shed. Betty and Wilma won't come out of their run even when there isn't one of these around:

Though they won't come out mainly because they can't see any ground to peck at under all the white stuff. Foxy there is the grown-up cub of  Broken Tail, a vixen who was suckling five cubs in broad daylight in the next door's garden (we're in a suburb, not in the country) two summers ago. Looks like one of them didn't want to leave home.

The weather has also interfered with my hunting - that is for a nice low mileage Honda Firestorm for 2K or under. As soon as that is in the bag I can order the Keihin flatside carbs from CA Cycleworks wth the money left over from selling the CB1300. In fact pretty soon I may just order them anyway - there are lots of reasonable 2K bikes around.

I have a vice for the workbench now, I have also been using my new hex drivers to take the headlight and clocks off of the Monster, and a mate of mine is donating a drill stand.

I've also bought a very nice Cyclecat billet top yoke to replace the ugly pig iron that was revealed when I removed the bars and risers. This new yoke is a piece of billet alloy artwork and should be much lighter too - will post pics when it arrives. Buying it has comitted me to sticking with the Monster non-adjustable Showa forks. I took advice on this from UK Monster Owner's Club.  I decided I would have to prioritise and not convert front-end to superbike spec. (916 et al) forks which are 53mm mount rather than 50mm. The new yoke is standard M900 fit of 50mm (these measurements refer to the top yoke apertures for fork legs). UK MOC member, Zimbo's advice was that the stock forks where better than early SS 50mm  adjustable forks. The key is to have them set up by professionals like MCT or Maxton. They won't look so techie with no adjustment, but the pilot's view will be nice and clean...

Ideally I would like to get  a nice aftermarket shock and get back and front suspension fettled at the same time. That's a way off though. Next steps are all about the engine and the frame. I've ordered a puller for the left hand crankcase, which means I will be able to fit a lightweight flywheel, and maybe replace the starter motor which was getting stuck everynow and then.

Plenty to do, just need the snow to clear and the weather to warm up a tiny bit.....

I Said "Vroom Vroom"

A quick post. More wiring traced and disconnected ready for engine drop. Clip-ons purchased on the 'bay for price of an Indian takeaway for two - Robbymoto alloy ones - arrived on Friday. Of course I had to see what they looked and felt like on the bike. Took the wide gold Renthals off and dropped the forks about 20mm so I could try them above the yoke. Why do people say dropped the forks? Actually they nearly always seem to mean they are dropping the rest of the bike while the forks are rising in the yokes - oh well. When I did this I rushed straight in and started undoing top and bottom yokes and luckily bike dropped just the right amount, the Chicken Gods of Stupidity must have been watching over me I guess.

The clip-on handlebars have a slight rise, and mounted above the yoke (which is a lot easier for a try-out) they felt pretty good. I have a dodgy back but if I can't try a sporty riding position on a special, what can I try it out on? I put the seat unit back on the bike and then realised what a big difference the tank makes to supporting yourself when using low bars, so I plopped that back on too. Cue a couple of minutes of going "vroom vroom" and having cafe racer fantasies. Luvverly. One of the clip-ons has a little sticker saying "competition only". This may be because the collars only fix to the forklegs with one bolt each. If I use them some Locktite "insurance" may be in order.

Back to the strip down. All went well with clutch slave and rear-sets and front sprocket all coming off again, fixings bagged and labelled. Then it was time to take out rear shock. The bottom of the shock is secured by an 8mm hex bolt with a caged nut on the other side, You reach the hex through an access hole in the swinging arm. No room for my nice hex bit sockets. My only 8mm allen keys are made of cheese, and even a good one may flex and twist a little too much. Going to sleep on it and ask Roly whether he has something that will help tomorrow. Saw a "long" 8mm hex bit socket on the 'bay for about 7 squid that may do it so that is in on my watch list. Steady wins the race....