Right then! Back to the Moto Guzzi V50..

Time to get back to the sadly neglected Moto Guzzi V50 project! It's been at least a couple of years since we got to this stage, and what was bought as a runner may have suffered as a result.

Possible design direction, although less of the lumpy tank. Long, rectangular classic racer look is the goal with inspiration from 70's sport and racing mopeds...

Rear shocks sourced:

Also have bought conversion kit to change from bicycle style ball bearing head set to taper roller bearing. Some inconsistent info on the web about whether you need to get a longer stem pressed in. We shall see...

Skinny front end will be further augmented with high quality FAC dampers. These forks run an internal damper much like modern cartridge systems. There are two choices, cheap standard or expensive FAC, The latter are supposed to be a serious improvement. As the V50 has a great reputation for fine handling, improving the existing set up seems a better bet than putting on a different front end that may affect trail, off-set etc.

 That takes care of the front end fundamentals although a fork brace may be added. On the electrics front, the ancient loom with weird fuses etc. and the high cost of getting someone to do a loom, starts to make this look like a good idea:

The Motogadget M-unit allows you to simplify your loom by getting rid of all relays and fuses and providing a central, programmable, point to run your wiring to. It's shock and water resistant and has no moving parts. Short circuit and overload protection is automatic and self correcting. This will form the hub of my new wiring. I already have a Dynatek electronic ignition kit to fit, and may spring for their coils too.

Plenty to do then, to get a rolling chassis and an electrical system together. In the meantime some serious decision-making, budgeting, and saving to be done with regards to the motor and shaft-drive. How much assessment can I handle myself? Can I afford a full professional re-build. Can I afford not to have one? And these Heron-headed, mild-mannered, hard to hot-up V50 engines, Can any sensible tuning be accomplished? I've seen stuff about lightened flywheels and skimmed gas-flowed heads.

Also carbs and brakes need re-conditioning. Currently proposing to stick with the linked brake system, after reading some accounts from people who seem to know what they're talking about, but we will see.  More to come soon....

Vulpe Rosso!!

So we are well into the New Year and unusually wintery weather (for the UK) is keeping me out of the shed. Betty and Wilma won't come out of their run even when there isn't one of these around:

Though they won't come out mainly because they can't see any ground to peck at under all the white stuff. Foxy there is the grown-up cub of  Broken Tail, a vixen who was suckling five cubs in broad daylight in the next door's garden (we're in a suburb, not in the country) two summers ago. Looks like one of them didn't want to leave home.

The weather has also interfered with my hunting - that is for a nice low mileage Honda Firestorm for 2K or under. As soon as that is in the bag I can order the Keihin flatside carbs from CA Cycleworks wth the money left over from selling the CB1300. In fact pretty soon I may just order them anyway - there are lots of reasonable 2K bikes around.

I have a vice for the workbench now, I have also been using my new hex drivers to take the headlight and clocks off of the Monster, and a mate of mine is donating a drill stand.

I've also bought a very nice Cyclecat billet top yoke to replace the ugly pig iron that was revealed when I removed the bars and risers. This new yoke is a piece of billet alloy artwork and should be much lighter too - will post pics when it arrives. Buying it has comitted me to sticking with the Monster non-adjustable Showa forks. I took advice on this from UK Monster Owner's Club.  I decided I would have to prioritise and not convert front-end to superbike spec. (916 et al) forks which are 53mm mount rather than 50mm. The new yoke is standard M900 fit of 50mm (these measurements refer to the top yoke apertures for fork legs). UK MOC member, Zimbo's advice was that the stock forks where better than early SS 50mm  adjustable forks. The key is to have them set up by professionals like MCT or Maxton. They won't look so techie with no adjustment, but the pilot's view will be nice and clean...

Ideally I would like to get  a nice aftermarket shock and get back and front suspension fettled at the same time. That's a way off though. Next steps are all about the engine and the frame. I've ordered a puller for the left hand crankcase, which means I will be able to fit a lightweight flywheel, and maybe replace the starter motor which was getting stuck everynow and then.

Plenty to do, just need the snow to clear and the weather to warm up a tiny bit.....